Gem Class with Paramount Jewelers

The Asscher cut was created by the Asscher Diamond Company and was originally introduced in 1902. During the 20’s the cut became very popular but with the effects of the Great Depression its popularity diminished.  For many years this stone was found mostly in vintage jewelry shops but enjoyed renewed interest in the early years of this century.

This cut is very similar to the Emerald cut stone but is a square cut where the Emerald cut is a rectangle. It characteristically has large step facets and a high crown which allows it to capture and spread light in a dramatic and unique fashion. The profile of the stone is a little more broad and deep than other cuts. Its breathtaking beauty requires careful selection. Because of the large table of the stone, small imperfections and inclusions are more visible than in other cuts so it is wise to choose with attention to detail.

It is difficult to find a cut with more drama than that of an Asscher cut stone.

The Emerald cut is also known as a Step cut and is an historical old cut with a rectangular table or top and symmetrical steps along the sides cut in parallel steps. It was originally designed to showcase the color of emerald stones and is now used for most other gemstones due to the cut’s sheer elegance. The name “Emerald Cut” was not used until the 1920’s, when the sensibilities of Art Deco became en vogue.

Around 1940 standardization of the Emerald Cut was complete and is widely used by gem cutters to bring more fire into the stone to emphasize it’s inherent color. The original Step Cut stone style allows for many polygonal shapes, including square, rectangle, kite, or lozenge and does not follow a set pattern while today’s standardized Emerald Cut is usually a rectangle with a total of 58 facets having 25 on the Pavilion, 25 on the Crown, and 8 on the Girdle, with three rows of top steps and three rows of bottom steps.

The Princess cut is one of the most popular diamond cuts in the world. Originally this was referred to as the “Barion” cut patented in 1971 by its creator Basil Watermeyer and originally had 81 facets as an offshoot of the famous “French” cut

The Princess cut is considered a mixed cut and has a square shape. The cut features a unique chevron-shaped pavilion faceting paired with table facets cut similar to a round brilliant, and combined with the unique pyramid shape helps create greater light dispersion.

Princess cuts are also a preferred cut for manufacturers, as there is less weight loss as that from a Brilliant cut. Whereas a brilliant cut will lose about 50% of its weight, a Princess will retain nearly 80%, resulting in a simpler cut for the jeweler and usually a less expensive diamond for the buyer.

The “Brilliant” (or “Round Brilliant”) cut is one of the most well-known shapes for gemstones and is meant to emphasize the shine of a stone. In this cut, many facets are cut into the surface of the diamond to increase its refractiveness and luster. This cut is usually employed when the stone from which it is cut is an octahedron. It was developed in the early 20th century by master cutter Marcel Tolkowsky.

This cut is very familiar to most as the stereotypical “diamond” shape, with a large, circular top (the ‘Table’), with a short base (the ‘Crown’), a wide brim (the “Girdle”), and a cone-like drop (the ‘Pavilion’) into a final point at the bottom (the ‘Culet’). The standard number of refractive facets cut into the stone is around 33 (for the crown) and 25 (for the pavilion), though these sometimes vary in size and number, leading to some contention within the gem cutting community.